Just a disclaimer, this isn’t a full-on Jirisan travel guide because, well... I didn’t actually make it to the peak.
But if you’re curious to know why, and you're in the mood for a story, this might be a good read while you're on a train or bus ride somewhere.
Ever since my first trip to South Korea, hiking Jirisan (Mount Jiri), the second tallest mountain in the country and the tallest on the mainland had always been on my bucket list.
During my first trip in South Korea, it just wasn’t practical to squeeze in the journey. So on my next visit, I made sure to give it a shot. And so, the journey began.
To my surprise, there wasn’t a lot of information online for solo travelers planning to hike Jirisan. After digging through blog posts and asking around on subreddit groups, I finally decided to book my stay at The Goodstay Little Prince Pension House—and I couldn’t have chosen better.
I highly recommend this pension house! The location is perfect—right across the Hwaeomsa Bus Station. From my window, I had a gorgeous view of the mountain, and the best part? You can literally start your hike right from the property. The owner also speaks fluent English, which was a huge help for navigating the trail as a solo traveler.
You can book your stay here:
BOOK YOUR STAY AT THE GOOD STAY LITTLE PRINCE PENSION HOUSE
USE MY KLOOK CODE: KENNETHSURATKLOOK
I started my hike early. According to the information center, most hikers begin around 5:00 AM, but they recommend starting between 5:30 and 6:00 AM. By 8:00 AM, the trail gets noticeably more crowded.
As I made my way along the path, I passed a few fellow hikers—mostly ahjumma and ahjussi. Surprisingly, the trail leading to one of the most famous peaks, Nogodan, was relatively quiet.
One thing I truly admire about Korean hiking trails is how well-marked and maintained they are. Most routes have clear signage, steps, or established paths, making solo hiking less intimidating.
But then came an unexpected twist.
When I reached Yeongjam Temple about two hours and two kilometers into the hike, I saw a notice stating that access to Nogodan was temporarily closed due to forest fire prevention. Just like that, my original goal was out of reach.
With no choice but to consider the temple my final stop, I let myself take in the stunning view. It was still early in the morning, and I found myself wondering, what now?
As I explored Yeongjam Temple, more hikers started to arrive. I took the opportunity to ask one of them, a kind lady named Yoon about the closure. She confirmed it, but also mentioned she was planning to visit several other temples in the area instead. Then she looked at me and said, “Want to join?”
Since I had the whole day free, I happily said yes.
Like many others I encountered on the trail, Yoon was on the older side but incredibly fit and energetic. It’s something I deeply admire about Korean hiking culture: age doesn’t stop people from heading out into the mountains and enjoying nature.
We visited Cheoneunsa and Hwaeomsa Temple (a National Treasure, No. 67), and one of my favorites si Saseongam Hermitage which is a temple tucked away on Mount Osan, a foothill of Jirisan. There was something peacefully majestic about it, perched on the edge with mountain views all around.
While hiking up Mt. Osan, we ran into a group of ahjussi as a lot of hikers got a little held up because the trail became a bit confusing since no one was really sure where it led. After some back-and-forth, we all agreed to walk just a few more steps before turning back.
Apparently, the group of ahjussi thought I was Yoon’s son and were shocked to learn I was Filipino! That’s when they insisted on taking a photo with me, laughing and chatting along the way.
And wouldn’t you know it, those few extra steps led us right to the peak of Mt. Osan. I’m not completely sure if it was the official summit, but there was a marker, and we took it as a sign.
Regardless, I was happy. I had reached a peak of this hill or mountain in Gurye. It was a small but meaningful victory.
And it was all thanks to Yoon.
She was such a trooper, adopting me as her hiking buddy for the day. We even ended up driving around Gurye and Suncheon together (but that’s a story for another time).
She told me she loves the outdoors and traveling, and she always grabs any chance to go hiking. I think meeting me gave her an excuse to explore a little more and I’m so glad it did.
None of this was planned. None of it expected. But it became one of the most memorable days of my trip.
I’ll definitely return one day to properly conquer Jirisan. But for now, I’m just grateful for how the day unfolded.
It’s a gentle reminder not to sulk when things don’t go the way we hoped but to stay open, embrace detours, and see where the unexpected can take us.
Follow my adventures on socials at @kennethsurat
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